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By Bicycle Through the South of Myanmar

Florian Schmale


Tourism in Myanmar, including cycle tourism, had been around for a while but was mostly organized by government enterprises. However, in recent years, Myanmar has seen some changes. In 2010, the Nobel Peace Prize winner and head of the National League for Democracy (NLD) party, Aung San Suu Kyi, was released from her twenty year house arrest. In the year 1990, the NLD won the elections. However, their victory was not recognized by the regime.

In 2012, comprehensive reforms for democratization and the opening up of the economy to draw in foreign investments were promised. The promise resulted in the lifting of sanctions from the U.S. government and other European governments against the country.

But change takes time. Most members of the new civil government are former military personnel. Human rights violations as well as numerous unresolved and violent conflicts with minorities persist with large areas of the country still inaccessible to foreigners.

By the second half of 2013, the news came about new possibilities to enter Myanmar through four check points via neighbouring Thailand. I made an instant decision to seize the chance to travel through the country by bicycle, with the intention of getting as close as I could with the local people.

Friendly people and poor roads

I'm already four weeks in Myanmar and had some great experiences. I stayed with Buddhist monks in monasteries, got invited for food by families, tried to camp on a field while fifty people were watching me. I cycled (or often pushed) along some of the toughest roads of my entire journey, got annoyed by the tourism industry in Bagan and Inle Lake and had problems with the police while camping wild. So no wonder that I decided to spend some more time in this beautiful country, although I'm not sure if I can leave to Thailand with an overstayed visa. My plan is to go south. That part of Myanmar was, until recently, restricted to foreigners and is not developed for tourists.

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From the city of Dawei, I want to cycle all the way down to Kawthoung, the city at the southern most tip of Myanmar.

The road is sometimes good, sometimes bad. It is mostly parallel to the sea through endless rubber and palm oil plantations. Most of the nights I manage to pitch my tent undetected by locals or the police. As a foreigner, it is not allowed to sleep at other places then certain guesthouses with a special license (and a special tax of course).

The only possibility to get some food are the small villages on the main road. The curiosity, but particularly the friendliness of the people, impresses me again. These people, who often don't possess more than a small bamboo hut and a few pots, make the best out of their lives despite all the difficulties and circumstances. They are always ready to give a smile or to speak out a welcome or an invitation for food or drinks.

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Communication on the linguistic level is restricted due to the lack of knowledge of English on the Burmese part, and the lack of Burmese language skills on my part. Of course, a lot of communication is possible without words, even without sign language. I call it communication on a different level, on a higher level. It is even difficult to describe it in words, it is just that you can feel the other person. If you don't know what I mean by that, just try to smile to a strange person and look in their eyes. I'm sure you will feel the connection, that it is just another human in front of you, and you can communicate. But sometimes there is the opportunity for a good conversation - in words and in English.

I ask about the "political change" and the "opening up of Myanmar," terms which often appear in the western media, and the old man starts to laugh. "You really think something has improved for the people?" he asks me. He tells me about the so called "land grabbing," which has greatly increased lately. The government, the army, or army related companies bring land into their possession by supposedly "legal means" or by force, and displace the resident farmer. Those who dare to protest get imprisoned.

The land for a new deep-water port near Dawei, property for several power plants and cement factories, and also the site of many army bases has been grabbed in this way. Compensation doesn't exist; the people have no other choice than to leave their land, which is their livelihood and what they sometimes till for generations.

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Many people seem to have no hope in Aung San Sun Kyi. Although posters and offices of the "National League for Democracy" can be found in every village, enthusiastic or hopeful words I hear nowhere.

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Most tourists don't know much about these things or they don't want to know at all. Only if you look closely and inform yourself will you notice that in Myanmar, the "Land of Smiles" (travelguide) the reality of life for the population is quite hard. A smile can pass quickly when you read the reports of robbery, rape, and murder by the military, torture, forced labor, and human trafficking, to name only the most serious crimes.

For these reasons, it is astonishing how friendly and at ease the people in Myanmar seem to be. People smile a lot and their smiles are genuine. One day I ask in a small village for food. There is no restaurant, just a small shop, but the friendly lady prepares some rice, green vegetables, and even a small fish for me. After this good meal, a coffee is served and I pull some notes out of my pocket to pay. The woman looks surprised and then starts to laugh. She makes clear that I'm her guest and she won't except any payment. I have the feeling she even didn't think about charging me for this meal. Another time in a similar situation I manage to put some money under the tablecloth; in that way it is good for everyone.

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Dolphins and Sea Gypsies

Myeik is the next largest city. The port is busy but smaller, and larger boats are busily loading and unloading. In the market and in shops there are many Thai products, the border is not far away and there is much smuggling going on.

The final stretch to the southern end of Myanmar is still restricted. While two German cyclists came through without a special permit a few weeks ago, a British cyclist had to continue by bus just a few days before. The situation is unclear.

I decide to take a boat to Kawthoung. This is much more comfortable than a bus and certainly faster. The ticket costs $40 for foreigners, for Burmese only half the price.

Several hundred small islands lay in front of the coast. It is the habitat of the Moken people. These people are also called Sea Gypsies. They live in the dry season on their boats, at sea, to fish and trade. Only in the rainy season do they stay longer on land, repair their boats and live in makeshift shelters on the islands. They are sea nomads whose traditional and close-to-nature lifestyle is threatened. The Burmese government is trying to make these people settle on land; oil drilling and overfishing is destroying their livelihoods. Until today, their habitat is still spared from tourism, but unfortunately it won't take long until the first dive resort gets built and the beaches and dolphin appearances are sold out and commercialized by the tourism industry.

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The boat trip takes six hours, smaller and larger islands flit past, some of them so small that there is only space for a few palms. The boat stops in between to take up or set down passengers from small wooden boats; there are no piers.

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Dolphins appear frequently in the water, it's a beautiful last day in Myanmar, a country which I will keep good in memory and will certainly visit again.

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In May 2012 Florian Schmale set off from Germany to discover the world on a bicycle. His destination was India but once he got there he decided to continue his journey towards South East Asia. At this moment Florian is on the road for over two years, passed 24 countries and has cycled more than 37,000 kilometer. He doesn't know when this journey will end, probably not until he pedals all around the world. Read about his journey at One Man One Bike One World.

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Sen7nTgVgDX
2 years, 1 month ago
I can't beilve I've been going for years without knowing that.
0qKNTzkIM
2 years, 1 month ago
The USA needs to lead by example. We have to<a href="http://hxzcsnaqkj.com"> ineervtne</a> on behalf of our government. In hindsight, when the government destroyed $12 million of water, this could have been a substantial gift in a area so wrecked with disasters. Now that we are aware that the aid may be diverted to generals, who insist on turning the country into anarchy. I will suggest, we establish a 14 day plan to rescue efforts in this region. NO EXCEPTIONS!The resources have to be put to better and more discretionary use. Question: When does water go bad? What should I look for tell-tale signs of decay? This water cold have served a multitude with water to cleanse the people! What are we not thinking about. I realize the male ender has sexually imploded and is in a state of induced stupidly. Okay, listen to Momma, this too will pass! The actions have to be swift and aggressive to force the issue of contained survival in this region. There needs to be a concerted effort to aid n any way and by all means. You cannot play with this event. Either the people want our assistance or they don't. If they do, they have to adhere to our rules, regulations and guidelines. This is not an option.Do something that makes sense!We have to prioritize our agenda(s). We have more important things that need to be settled and going to the Olympics in Beijing is not one of them. There is no need for our participation in a morally corrupt and diabolical regime to put on a show of athletics. Our athletics have been physically and mentally challenged to the extent that they may not be able to give 100% to their sport, for fear of their lives. HERE IS THE STRATEGY FOR RESCUING MYANMAR: 2 battalions of specials forces. 2 corps of engineering personnel. Please have in place, the rebuilding and rehabbing specifications and materials that will be done to complete the country's infrastructure. Special divisions for medical and triage as needed. I invented the Viral Inhibitor, specifically for HIV and AIDS candidates. However, what is happening in Myanmar, qualifies for its use, and those same destructive mutations are now being hosted by a more vulnerable condition. This treatment if very aggressive and helps the body re-generate fighting cells. The turnaround time for wellness, is very short, less than 4 hours. So let's get busy!
9f5PSYKJb
2 years, 1 month ago
This is the perfect post for me to find at this time!
SlKQUYKrYi
1 year, 3 months ago
It's not like I am playing down the peolpe of Myanmar,but the Bush stimulus is a farce. It is supposed to help Americans and struggling peolpe in this country. Did you know that if one person was disabled and had no income to report,the spouse being only one bringing in income gets a rebate of only $600.00 eventhough married filing jointly? This is bullshit.That $600.00 is only going to pay our rent because there is only one income and we can't get by on one paycheck and furthermore the Government apparently could care less because they will not give me a hearing for appeal. I have to fight for any assistance while Joe Blow gets benefits right away because he is 500lbs.and an alcoholic and even more is probably another color other than white. There are alot more peolpe in worse shape than we are, but the Government has got send millions to an ungrateful country who hates Americans. Honestly, do you really think those poor peolpe over there are going to benefit from one red cent? It's going to go into some corrupt militant's pocket to turn around and further fund the global terrorism factions. God forbid you ever had to walk in my shoes; then you would know what it's like to have to choose food or rent. Forgive me for saying that the Government needs to look after the peolpe in these United States-- The Gulf coast is still in shambles, the entire midwest has been torn up by tornadoes, floods,fires. I don't recall Bush saying "lets' give millions to those peolpe who have lost everything they ever had. Must have missed the news that day....1scribe13
xPoiXgdeIb
1 year, 2 months ago
It's not like I am playing down the plpeoe of Myanmar,but the Bush stimulus is a farce. It is supposed to help Americans and struggling plpeoe in this country. Did you know that if one person was disabled and had no income to report,the spouse being only one bringing in income gets a rebate of only $600.00 eventhough married filing jointly? This is bullshit.That $600.00 is only going to pay our rent because there is only one income and we can't get by on one paycheck and furthermore the Government apparently could care less because they will not give me a hearing for appeal. I have to fight for any assistance while Joe Blow gets benefits right away because he is 500lbs.and an alcoholic and even more is probably another color other than white. There are alot more plpeoe in worse shape than we are, but the Government has got send millions to an ungrateful country who hates Americans. Honestly, do you really think those poor plpeoe over there are going to benefit from one red cent? It's going to go into some corrupt militant's pocket to turn around and further fund the global terrorism factions. God forbid you ever had to walk in my shoes; then you would know what it's like to have to choose food or rent. Forgive me for saying that the Government needs to look after the plpeoe in these United States-- The Gulf coast is still in shambles, the entire midwest has been torn up by tornadoes, floods,fires. I don't recall Bush saying "lets' give millions to those plpeoe who have lost everything they ever had. Must have missed the news that day....1scribe13 http://aluoaiezuxb.com [url=http://wtuxeraatnt.com]wtuxeraatnt[/url] [link=http://qsqujgai.com]qsqujgai[/link]
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